primavactor The Chronicle

Entry, extended · Venice

The Ridotto, 1638

Every "world's oldest casino" headline in Europe traces back to one room, in a building most visitors never notice, that stopped being a casino 252 years ago.

Francesco Guardi's painting of the Ridotto: masked figures in cloaks and tricorn hats standing around card tables in a long, panelled hall lit by chandeliers. c. 1755
Francesco Guardi painted the Ridotto around 1755, roughly twenty years before the Great Council shut it. Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons.

What is documented

In 1638 the Great Council of Venice opened the Ridotto in a wing of Palazzo Dandolo, beside the church of San Moisè. It is the first public, legal, state-run gaming house in the West that anybody can point to with paperwork, and that is why it matters. Gambling houses existed everywhere. A state saying "here, and only here, and we run it" did not.

The rules were as strange as the arrangement. Only nobles could play. They played masked, in tricorn hats, in an establishment the Republic had opened partly so that it could watch the thing it could not stop. It ran for 136 years.

In 1774 the Great Council closed it. The push came from the reformer Giorgio Pisani, and the stated motive was preserving piety and moderation. Whatever you make of that reasoning, the vote is real and the date is firm, and it is the beginning of a 185-year hole.

What is not documented, and gets printed anyway

Three claims travel with the Ridotto everywhere and we could not stand any of them up.

Then the hole

From 1774 to 1936 there is no Venetian casino at all. That is 162 years before play returned anywhere, and 185 before the address you would visit today made any sense. The chronology is short and worth reading slowly:

YearWhat happened
1481Mauro Codussi begins Ca' Vendramin Calergi for Andrea Loredan. Nothing to do with gambling; nobody has thought of the Ridotto yet.
1509The palace is finished, at a cost of more than 200,000 ducats. The Lombardo family completed the work.
1638The Great Council opens the Ridotto in Palazzo Dandolo, near San Moisè.
1774The Great Council closes it, on Giorgio Pisani's initiative.
1882 to 1883Richard Wagner takes the mezzanine of the white wing at Ca' Vendramin Calergi and works on the score of Parsifal. He dies of a heart attack there on the afternoon of 13 February 1883, aged 69. Still no casino in the building.
1 July 1936Play returns to Venice, at the Lido.
1946The Comune di Venezia buys Ca' Vendramin Calergi.
1959It becomes the casino's winter home. This is the first year in which the sentence "the casino at Ca' Vendramin Calergi" is true.
February 1995The Wagner museum opens inside the palace, built on Josef Lienhart's collection, the largest in private hands outside Bayreuth.
1999Ca' Noghera opens near Marco Polo airport: the first American-style casino in Italy, over 5,000 square metres.

So what survives of 1638

The institution, the paperwork and the line of descent. Not the room, not the building, not the run of years. Venice can honestly say it founded the first state-run public casino in the West, and it can honestly say the modern operation descends from that decision through the city that still owns it outright. What it cannot say, and to be fair does not say in so many words, is that anything has been continuous.

Our view, for what it is worth: 1638 is a better fact than the slogan built on it. A republic opening a gaming house so that it could supervise the vice it had failed to ban, then closing it 136 years later in a fit of civic virtue, then leaving the whole idea alone for 185 years and finally putting the tables in the palace where Wagner died, is a far stranger and better story than "world's oldest casino".

A carved marble memorial plaque to Richard Wagner set into the stone wall of Palazzo Vendramin Calergi, its Italian inscription weathered and streaked. 1883
The Wagner memorial at Ca' Vendramin Calergi. He died in the mezzanine of the white wing on 13 February 1883, seventy-six years before the casino moved in. Photo Didier Descouens, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons.

Checked 17 July 2026. Practical detail, entry prices and the rest of the Venice entry are on the front page. The dates above are drawn on the timeline.